At the bow the wires exit from the hull on the topside of the foredeck under the base of the navigation lamp fixture. At the stern the wires exit the hull and are attached to a terminal block. The wiring for the navigation lamp typically makes an airborne connection from the base of the pole over to the terminal block, usually a distance of only a few inches.
The electric lamps are illuminated by application of VDC power to the terminals of the terminal block. From this point all wiring was external to the hull. Wiring may have been installed from a console switch to the terminal block, or an even simpler arrangement may have used a short jumper from the terminal block to a battery. Note that many early Whalers were powered by engines with pull starting and thus did not have a large lead-acid starting battery aboard.
The navigation lights could be powered by a lantern battery, and the switch mechanism could have been as simple as connecting a wire from the terminal block to a post on the lantern battery. The third wire to the bow was included as a back up in case one of the wires failed. If you are lucky, a recently failed wire may be replaced with the unused third wire, but it is often seen that all three wires fail from corrosion at about the same time.
After c. Carefully drilled holes led the wires from the rub rail track back into the hull to the base of the lamp fixture at the bow and to the terminal block in the stern.
At the bow, below the fixture there typically is a 0. Replacement of the wiring inside the hull is not possible. The best alternative is to run new wiring, using the rub rail to conceal it. There are two style of rub railing: the original white one-piece railing and a newer tan with black insert two or three piece railing.
See the Reference article on Rub Rails for more details. New wiring is more easily installed under the newer style railing. The wiring is run between the plastic receiver track and vinyl insert. If you have the original one-piece white railing, your best alternative as recommended by Boston Whaler customer service for running wiring to the bow may be to attach it under the lip of the hull-deck joint using a long, continuous piece of high-quality white tape to retain the wiring to the hull.
If the wiring has failed on a boat with the newer style rub rail and external wiring i. When replacing wiring, use quality marine grade wire. Use of AWG is suggested if there is room. It is probably easier to run individual wires as opposed to a sheathed cable. Flat paired wire or "zip cord" can also be used. Be sure to use tinned and stranded wire. The convenience is worth it and the wire is of good quality.
In many Boston Whaler classic boats it has been seen that the wiring to the combined sidelights navigation lamp has failed at some point in the wiring concealed under the rub railing. The best assumption is that the insulation of the wiring dried and cracked, and at that point water was admitted to the inside of the wire. The water especially saltwater corrodes the copper to the point that the conductivity of the wire is broken.
The wire develops an open circuit somewhere along its length. A number of people have reported this. The best solution is to replace the wiring with new, quality marine wire. The cost of a new run is not much and will give much better reliability than making splices.
The termination of the wiring at the stern varied over the years. In some cases just the terminal block was used, exposed to the elements. Later a small molded tan cover was installed to conceal the terminals and protect them from splashing.
Wiring from the terminal block to the console may be run via the rigging tunnel if the boat has one, or across the transom and forward along the gunwale for side console boats. It seems particularly unnecessary to consult or acquire actual Boston Whaler factory wiring diagrams for wiring of the navigation lamps. The circuit is trivial. Wire one side of the lamps to the battery negative; wire the other side to a switch which is supplied with battery positive through a fuse.
Please note that it is extremely important to place the electrical disconnect in the switching circuit in the positive lead. Leaving the navigation light fixtures connected to battery positive and breaking the negative lead will create the risk for much additional corrosion of the wiring and fixtures, and it will probably result in failure of the navigation lamps much sooner than otherwise.
A circuit breaker can be used in place of a simple switch if desired. The original switches were typically pull switches with a flared brass knob. Similar marine switches are still available from Cole-Hersee. This is of dubious value as it is unlikely a foot or foot boat would be left at anchor overnight in an area which would require use of anchor lights.
The requirement to show proper lights at night when anchored is waived in special anchorage areas, common in most harbors with boats on moorings. The hull construction of a Boston Whaler differs from most all other recreational boats. Accordingly, if the hull becomes damaged, special techniques need to be used in making the repairs. The recommendations of the factory for repair techniques applicable to a Boston Whaler hull are extremely well illustrated in a separate article in the Reference section.
The exact instructions and procedures recommended by the Boston Whaler factory are reproduced in the Reference Area. Another article describes how to make simple hull repairs using epoxy resin.
The short answer is "yes", but before you do, please read this separate article in the Reference section. It has been reported that repaired holes are still holding perfectly three years later. WEST System epoxy also is excellent for this application.
Use their high-density filler to thicken and some titanium oxide pigment to tint. Typically four bolts are used to mount an outboard motor to a transom. Generally, with a new engine, the manufacturer supplies the mounting hardware.
On some engines the mounting screws may be metric fasteners of similar strength and size. When replacing hardware use mounting screws of proper size and strength. Stainless steel fasteners are highly recommended to avoid corrosion.
Stainless steel threads should be protected against galling by application of a thread compound. For more details on this problem see this article by Joe Greenslade. The mounting bracket of the engine typically is designed for two upper mounting bolts and two lower mounting bolts, arranged symmetrically about the engine centerline. The normal practice is to use a single set of holes in the transom, and to adjust the engine's vertical position by choosing a set of one of these four or five mounting holes on the engine mounting bracket as needed to accomplish the proper engine height.
The lower mounting holes in the engine bracket may be a corresponding matched set of four or five individual holes or a slot that covers the same range of adjustment. On some engine's mounting bracket there is a single elevated lower mounting hole.
This hole is often not drilled through, but rather is threaded to accept a mounting bolt entering from the transom. This type of hole is known as a "blind hole," and it is presumed the choice of a threaded hole was done avoid a protruding bolt and nut that might interfere with other parts of the engine mount in that area.
Use of this hole allows the lower mounting hole in the transom to be located higher. See below why this may be desireable on certain models of Boston Whaler boat. Prior to c. To create a standard, the marine industry adopted a specific layout to be used with all outboard motors. It is believed this standard was patterned after the one used at the time by OMC, the makers of Johnson and Evinrude brands, and used by OMC begining as early as on certain models. Engines made prior to c.
When engine mounting height is measured in units of "holes" the unit of measurement is in 0. The terms "up" and "down" refer to the position of the engine relative to the transom, not to the location of the holes relative to the top of the transom.
That is, "one hole up" means the engine will be raised 0. On some models of Boston Whaler boats, the arrangement of the transom and the splash well did not provide sufficient depth to permit using the lower mounting hole position found on the standard engine mounting bracket in use after c.
If this hole were drilled in the standard position, it would exit the transom below the level of the splash well on the inboard end, and thus it would not be accessible. A number of solutions to this problem have been seen in existing installations on older Boston Whaler boats. Where transom holes and engine mounting bracket holes do not align, particularly for those older boats with shallow splash wells, a recommended solution is to use an intermediary plate, commonly available as a "jack plate" or a "lift plate".
These plates are not expensive, and are available in aluminum which can easily be re-drilled on the transom side with holes matching the existing layout.
On the engine side the plate should fit most all engines made after c. The plate will also create a small amount of engine set back, itself possibly a desirable condition. See the article on Engine Set Back Brackets for more information. On many older engines, particularly ones of less than HP, it was common that the engine was fastened to the transom by clamps.
In some cases the angle of the clamp bracket did not fit flush against the transom top of the Boston Whaler, and a special mounting bracket was supplied by Boston Whaler to create a small wedge on the top surface of the transom so that the engine weight could be spread across the whole surface of the top of the transom and not bear on a single point or line of contact. Not every boat is affected, so one boat may be OK, and the next has holes in it.
In a perfect world if you could afford the correct prep and find a non permeable foam it may help, but the issue is water between the foam, or any material that comes in contact with the aluminum. If there's a lack of oxygen along with water it forms a very acidic environment, add salt and it gets worse. Put anything in the bilge that creates an environment like this and you have a potential issue. Mr Efficiency , Jan 17, I used to participate in the Metal Boat Society forum. There was ongoing discussion about this using foam as insulation on metal hulls.
I think the consensus was that with adequate prep the foam could be used for insulation, but that it would not last forever and eventually have to be taken out. The inside of the hull would have to cleaned up, prepped and the foam re applied. But what our poster here is proposing is flotation foam. It would not be accessible for inspection or replacement.
I personally have never seen that sandwich construction. Seems much harder than anything I've known about. And of course it "would not be accessible for inspection". I've seen aluminum foam core panels used in aircraft, but never in a boat. When under heavy load and plowing along below planning speeds, the middle cavity in the hull forced air into the water as it rushed into the propeller.
This lead to propeller ventilation and rough running for the motor. Fisher took his problem to the originator of the Sea Sled, Hickman himself, but this consultation held little hope for improvement. Hickman was certain the Sea Sled was the way to go and offered no modifications. Fisher decided that they'd have to "put some stuff on the bottom to move that airy water out the there.
Then we would wait until the fiberglass cured and run the boat and find out it didn't work and bring it back and start over again. We'd get maybe three experiments done in one day.
As his experiments evolved, the prototype boat began to have a growing appendage down the center, filling the space between the two runners until it dropped down aft to become a slightly Vee-ed bottom.
At some point, Fisher called Hunt to come over and see the modified prototype. Hunt went back to the drawing board, and produced a new design which would ultimately evolve into the foot Whaler. The new hull had a third element between the two runners, projecting down and ending with a nine-inch flat bottom sole in the middle. Fisher, confident that they were on the right track, built a second prototype, this one finished well enough that it could serve as the plug for a production mold.
On sea trials, which consisted of running the new boat full throttle from Cohasset, Massachusetts to New Bedford and back a distance of miles , Fisher found a new flaw: the boat was "wetter than hell.
But a female mold had already been constructed from the new prototype. Instead of modifying the prototype hull and re-testing, Fisher was so certain he had the right correction he modified the mold! Material was added to transform the flat center section into a vee-bottom, creating more or less of a "pointed keel" in Fisher's words.
From that mold in the fall of came the Boston Whaler 13 foot hull. And since then the lines of the hull have remained virtually unchanged. The boat that resulted had good stability and excellent load carrying capacity, two attributes that were expected from the hull form, but it also had unexpectedly good performance and handling in rough weather conditions.
And its light weight and shape were easily driven by the comparatively low horsepower outboard motors of the time. Remember, in a 25 horsepower outboard was a big outboard. In total, it was a design breakthrough. Dick Fisher's innovation wasn't just in the hull's underwater shape. The construction technique was something totally new as well. Fiberglass boats were gaining in popularity.
Up the coast in Rhode Island, Everett Pearson was about to make his famous Pearson Triton sailboat, the first successful fiberglass sailboat to be mass produced. But Pearson's laminates were thick lay ups of resin and glass, suitable for a heavy sailboat, but not applicable to a lightweight outboard boat.
The Boston Whaler was unique in that it was essentially made from foam, coated with a relatively thin skin of laminates and gelcoat. The composite boat was strong, rigid, and light. The foam provided unheard of floatation, too. It made the hull very resistant to "oil canning", and it worked to absorb sound as well. At every turn, the foam filled hull seemed to have an advantage. Whaler has never said much about its actual techniques for making the boat, and well it might keep silent.
It seems that they are the only ones who have successfully mastered it. A Boston Whaler type of build wouldn't be possible, given the reasons sited, besides they're well know to delaminate their core from the shells.
PAR , Dec 19, Flomanse , Dec 19, I would stress that attention should be paid to the use of the correct material for structural areas , the direction of stress loads in those areas and whether or not flexibility is needed. A combination of cores is almost always a better choice build for large hulls to keep cost reasonable and have the proper core capabilities in the proper areas of the hull. Worth, Tx, USA. The entire issue with water is that if the foam was really closed cell, it would not be a problem.
The closed cells would not allow water beyond the damage. If you have to worry about water due to damage it is NOT closed cell. Get a piece of Airex and see if it sucks up any water besides the outside cut cells.
Expanding foam cannot be guaranteed to be a certain weight. That depends on if the foam can freely rise. If it is contained it will weight more than advertised, because it didn't expand. If the top of the rising foam "crusts over" the mass will be higher density. Even the cells next to the structure you pour it in will be more dense.
Perhaps I don't understand chemistry anymore. The expanding foam density is for an open condition. Otherwise, it will depend on the final volume. ABS has no place in hull construction.
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